bad habits

i am muttering, from time to time, didn't we have a lovely time the day we went to Parma... It's annoying me nearly as much as Geoff...

But we did.  Parma was fantastic.  The Baptistry (Battistero) was worth all of its three star rating in the Frommer's guide.  Full of amazing frescoes and angels and sculptures - lots of pink marble - and a singular, octagonal focus on baptism, dating from the 12th century.  Incredible.

The Battistero from the outside; looking up at the dome, couple of angels...

Then, having steeped ourselves in medieval churchy stuff, we headed off for what turned out to be our yummiest lunch so far (and most of our lunches have been fairly tasty).  The restaurant is called Borgo20 and we highly recommend... In fact we've even debated a day trip back to Parma from Florence for a repeat visit.  That will probably not happen but, you know, high praise.  I had carpaccio of sea bass.  Geoff had a selection of local meats and cheese.  We shared fiordilatte with balsamic. We enjoyed a bottle of Lambrusco and finished with coffee.  We sauntered out happy and well fed - but not too much.  A lovely way to finish our trip.

pink angels at the Museo Diocesano

But wait, there's more!  

Dinner.  After a train ride home that had more in common with a nasty sauna box than transportation, we staggered back to our apartment and regrouped (ie, snooze, shower, etc).  Off to dinner, down the long road, past the two towers, further, further, then around the corner to Antica Trattoria Spiga.  It was a bit quiet when we arrived, but we didn't let that put us off, and we had a very tasty last meal in Bologna.  Fried courgette flowers and salt cod to begin; delicious tortellini with sage butter; a beef and beer stew; semi-freddo; coffee.  Yum.  Waddled home - fortunately it was about 2km so we have worked off one of the courses (maybe).  Oh, and more Lambrusco. 

the gold angel is the original (I think) from the top of the Battistero, plus mosaics, etc

Also was lucky enough to find a very fetching birthday gift - the ring was made in Florence (by Elena Camilla Bertellotti - she has a website) - and is just gorgeous - kind of a Giotto blue set in some very tasty bronze.

All in all a cheerful day, and Parma was a revelation.  Tomorrow we're off to the Cinque Terre.